The clouds parted, the temperatures rose, and the opportunity to spend a night in the mountains presented itself. The Spearhead traverse located in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia is a classic. It is usually completed by gaining the alpine on the Blackcomb ski lifts and finishing via Singing Pass on the Whistler side, however both directions (Whistler to Blackcomb or vise versa) are often traveled.
We began by gaining East Col dropping down to Decker Lake and gaining Decker Glacier. As we moved across Troyer Gl, all the phone calls, emails and thing on my to do list were swept away by the wind and transported to God knows where. I relaxed and the adventure began.
We summited Mt Patison after lunch at 1245
Descended to Tremor Gl and the visibility deteriorated. As we probed our way up to the Tremor Col, I felt the solidarity of mountains and even though I couldn’t see my outstretched hands I could not wipe the smile off my face. As we ascended the col the clouds parted and I captured this image of Will Woods prior to our summit of Mt Tremor. Time: 1530
After looking dauntingly down the peppered Hourglass and retreating, we made our way across the Platform Glacier towards Quiver Peak and our campsite on the Ripsaw Gl. Our meal prepared by Taran Ortlieb was a gourmet feast so plentiful it attracted a fat raven. He stayed with us bravely inching closer to our temporary home until the night sky fell and he took off for greener pastures under a moonlit sky. Time: 1900
As I lay awake in my minus 18 bag I could not help but think I was not much of a gentleman to Taran in his cold bivy and minus 10 bag outside the tent. The walls of the tent began to shudder with gusts of angry wind, oddly soothing. At approximately 0230 Taran’s voice woke me from my slumber as he climbed into the two man tent with Will and I to regain body temperature. The winds’ angry blasts had battered his timid soul and we proceeded to spoon and roll in unison the remainder of the night.
0600 We gazed longingly at the expanse of uninhabited terrain surrounding us for miles in wonderment. It took the grumble of my stomach to kick me into gear and steal my focus from the rising sun. There is a kind of peace in the rise and fall of the sun in the mountains, the kind of peace that can steal a man’s purpose and forever capture his attention. I compare this to giving in, your last breath, soothing and captivating. What comes next can be no better nor worse that living in this moment forever. But, alas we move forward as we all must.
Day 2 saw warmer temperatures, and stronger winds. The change in conditions from N to S aspects was other worldly, and we were thankful for an early start. The climb up Iago Glacier was breath taking and we spoke fondly of the bridges that had now formed into solid, confidence inspiring planks across daunting holes. The Diavolo Gl ran us dry as we melted our way to the Fitz Col. Upon arrival I wondered if I’d had enough spare food to turn around. Perhaps I could pluck and cook our Raven friend, as returning to civilization seemed less, and less appealing.
Our final stages across the Fitz Gl and through a short rappel to Overlord had me thinking of Ceasers and Nachos…so much for serenity. My day dreams continued to parallel those thoughts lost on the Troyer Gl and I began to wonder if perhaps I had found where they blew off too the day before.
I would reccomend the traverse to experienced recreationalalists looking for a complex route finding environment. The traverse is scenic and short, and my partners and I found it easy on the mind, and soul.
